Water Turtles
Housing
Considerations
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The type and size of enclosure used depends upon the species,
number and size of the water turtles to be housed. Hatchlings can be
kept indoors in small aquariums. Older or larger specimens require a
large aquarium or an outdoor pond (cement or plastic-lined). Contact
the organizations and associations listed at the end of this pamphlet
for further information on pond construction.
Careful attention must be paid to filtration systems, cleaning
requirements, and ease of draining water from ponds used to house
water turtles. Rigid molded plastic swimming pools for children are
also suitable for housing water turtles, provided they are
adequately equipped with a filtration system and means to replenish
the water.
Any enclosure should provide adequate room for swimming and
sufficient dry area for resting and sunning. Providing a dry, non-
submerged area is very important. Water turtles, especially
juveniles, can become exhausted and drown when no such dry area is
provided. Very small water turtles can be provided with a piece of
partially submerged wood or cork bark onto which they can crawl for
basking or under which they can hide. Larger and heavier water
turtles require a more solid and immovable basking area on which to
completely crawl out of the water and rest.
A platform of flat rocks or bricks can be fashioned or a ribbed
wooden platform, the surface of which rests just above the water's
surface, can be provided for basking. Any wooden platform must have
a substantially weighted base so it does not topple over. Driftwood,
provided it is well anchored, can also be used for resting and
basking, and is a visually appealing addition to an enclosure.
If an aquarium is used to house a water turtle, one end can be
used for a basking area. A pane of glass can be inserted into the
aquarium to divide it. About two-thirds of the available area can be
allocated for swimming and about one-third of the area for basking.
Gravel can be used to fill the basking side. Green plants can also
be planted or placed in this area if desired. A small ramp made of
wood or plastic can be attached to the dividing pane of glass to
allow the turtle easy access to the basking area. This area is also
advantageous for breeding female turtles because it gives them a
suitable area for laying their eggs.
The bottom covering for the enclosure must be carefully selected
for the species being housed, and must be non-toxic and non-abrasive.
Soft-shelled turtles (family Trionychidae) like to burrow and require
very fine sand at a depth that allows near total covering of the
upper shell. Small rocks should never be used because they can be
swallowed, resulting in damage or impaction to the intestinal tract.
Water Hygiene and Sanitation
The water level provided should be at least as deep as the turtle
is long, preferably several times this measure. Tap water is accept-
able provided it is allowed to stand undisturbed for at least 48
hours before the turtle is introduced. This is necessary for the
water to become free of chlorine and chloramines. Water conditioners
to buffer
the pH of the water and to remove harmful chemicals such as chlorine
from it may be used with each water change.
Sometimes unfavorable local conditions can make tap water unus-
able. The high iron content or fluoridation procedures of certain
water supplies can be harmful to water turtles.
Bottled water is probably safest for delicate water turtles and
for species whose actual aquatic requirements are unknown. Brackish
water can be approximated for species that require it (such as the
Diamondback Terrapin) by adding 1 tbsp of uniodized salt to each
gallon of water.
In the wild, the relatively large bodies of water in which
turtles live tend to reduce the concentration of waste products and
uneaten food. Consequently, free-living water turtles are rarely
affected by the decomposition and bacterial proliferation that
inevitably follow. This is not the case with captive water turtles.
Because of the relatively small water volumes of aquariums and ponds,
these limited enclosures tend to concentrate waste material. This
represents a potential hazard for the turtles because disease-causing
microorganisms that feed on this material also multiply. Water
turtles, therefore, live in a "soup" of potentially harmful microbes
and disease is an ever-present threat if sanitation is poor.
Every effort should be made to prevent soiling of the environ-
ment. All fecal matter should be netted or siphoned away as soon as
possible. Water turtles should be fed in an environment separate
from their living environment to reduce contamination of the water. A
small aquarium, hard plastic dishpan, or even a bucket works well in
this capacity.
A filtration system is necessary to maintain optimum water
quality. Undergravel filters work best, except when soft-shelled
turtles are housed in an enclosure. This type of turtle tends to
continually stir up the bottom material. Outside filters are
efficient, provide high flow rates, and are relatively easy to clean.
The corner filters routinely used with tropical fish are not as
effective or useful when used with water turtles.
Adding small amounts of vinegar to maintain a water pH of 6.0-6.5
(slighly acidic) may help keep bacterial counts low. One teaspoonful
of non-iodized (aquarium or rock) salt added per gallon aquarium
water may also help in this capacity.
At least once monthly, the water turtle's enclosure should be
entirely dismantled (including the filtration system) and thoroughly
cleaned. It is not practical to maintain this cleaning schedule
with ponds and other large enclosures. These should be cleaned at
least every 3-6 months.
Temperature
Hobbyists should attempt to duplicate the air and water tempera-
tures experienced by water turtles in their natural environment. When
temperatures drop, turtles become sluggish and stop eating. Food
already within the digestive tract may ferment or putrefy, allowing
bacteria to multiply and perhaps cause disease.
Many species tolerate room temperatures for both air and water.
When in doubt, provide the range of temperatures used for tropical
fish (70-80 F). Water turtles that originate from tropical climates
require a heat source. Aquarium heaters work best for indoor aqua-
riums. Large tanks and outdoor ponds require a specially designed
water heater that maintains a constant temperature.
An incandescent light bulb or heat lamp can be installed directly
above the basking area to provide supplemental heat. Most experts
believe turtles remain healthier if they are permitted to seek out
heat when they desire it. Great care should be taken to ensure the
temperature at the level of the basking surface does not exceed 90 F.
Such heat sources may also increase the water temperature in very
small aquariums to undesirable levels. A thermometer should be
placed in the water and another on or near the basking surface so the
temperature of these areas can be continually monitored.
Light
Ultraviolet (UV) light helps maintain health because it aids in
the absorption and use of dietary calcium. Regular incandescent and
fluorescent light bulbs do not emit UV light. Also, UV light
is filtered from sunlight as it passes through window glass or
plastic. Consequently, none of these sources is suitable for captive
reptiles, including water turtles. If artificial UV light sources
are unavailable, captive water turtles should be exposed to direct
sunlight for 2-4 hours daily. Most turtles take advantage of the
warm sunlight by resting on their basking areas. The water in very
small aquariums can readily become overheated if this sunlight
exposure schedule is rigidly followed. Therefore, caution should be
exercised.
An alternative to direct sunlight is an artificial UV light
source, such as a Vitalite, that can be used during daylight hours. Such
a light source should be left on during daylight hours to approximate
a natural photoperiod. It is best to supply 10-12 hours of daylight
and 12-14 hours of darkness each day, with a gradual increase in the
number of hours of light supplied in the spring and a gradual
decrease in light provided in the fall and winter months.
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