Snake
Housing
Considerations
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Enclosure and Space Requirements
As a general rule, snakes require relatively little space because
of their limited and nonexertional activity. Generally speaking, the
size of the enclosure should allow inclusion of certain required
items (discussed below) and still allow the snake adequate space to
stretch out and move about. Snakes will use both the horizontal and
vertical space within their enclosure if provisions are made for this
activity.
Aquaria or other similar glass or plexiglass-lined enclosures are
usually most suitable because they allow optimum visualization of and
safety for the occupant(s), and help to maintain desirable
environmental temperatures and generally high relative humidity
levels. Wire-lined enclosures may afford adequate visualization of
the snake but certainly cannot contribute to the maintenance of
desirable environmental temperature and humidity levels.
Furthermore, such enclosures promote injuries to the rostrum (nose
and surrounding tissues) as snakes repeatedly attempt to "escape"
through the wire mesh.
Any enclosure used must have a secure top and be escape-proof.
All hinges and locks should be secure. All snakes are potential
"escape artists" and many (especially the California King snake) can
escape from almost any apparently secure enclosure.
Floor Coverings and Enclosure Items
Unprinted newsprint, butcher paper, paper towels, terrycloth
towels and indoor-outdoor carpeting are the most suitable materials
for covering the bottom of a snake's enclosure. In fact, the first 2
materials mentioned can be cut to size and placed many layers thick
on the floor of the enclosure. When the top layer(s) are soiled,
they can be easily removed, leaving clean, dry paper. This makes
cleaning of the enclosure very quick and efficient. If
indoor-outdoor carpet is used, it is best to have 2-3 pieces cut to
the correct dimensions. This way, replacements can be used while the
soiled piece is cleaned and disinfected.
Under no circumstances should pea gravel, kitty litter, crushed
corncob material or wood shavings be used. These are unquestionably
more visually aesthetic than most of the materials mentioned above;
however, they are unsuitable because they trap moisture and filth,
provide unlimited "hiding places" for external parasites, and make
enclosures very difficult to clean. Furthermore, these types of
particulate matter are easily and inadvertently eaten while the snake
is feeding. This can cause mechanical injury to or obstruction of
the digestive tract.
Various objects should be included within a snake's enclosure
that occupy its vertical area. These include sturdy branches of
various hardwood trees or those fabricated from artificial materials,
driftwood, grapevine, hanging ropes, and shelves situated along the
sides of the enclosures.
Visual Security
It is very important to provide some privacy for a captive snake.
Many snakes will not feed without the privacy afforded by some degree
of visual security. This can be accomplished by providing a "hide
box" into which the snake can retreat when it feeds or at other times
when privacy is desired. Visual security can also be provided by the
use and strategic placement of silk artificial plants (and trees if
the enclosure is large enough to accommodate them). Silk plants are
visually pleasing and easy to clean and disinfect. They require
minimal maintenance, help to augment the relative humidity level of
the enclosure if the foliage is frequently misted, and can complement
a snake's ability to camouflage itself, thereby providing visual
security.
Climatic Considerations
Tropical snakes kept in captivity (boa constrictors, pythons,
etc) require relatively warm temperatures and high relative humidity.
Daytime temperatures should range between 80 and 85 F. Nighttime
temperatures can fall between 70-75 F without creating problems for
most snakes. Native American snakes do well when maintained at
70-80 F.
Relatively large enclosures can be supplied with heat lamps or
heaters equipped with thermostats, whereas small enclosures may be
adequately heated by placing a heating pad directly underneath them.
Exposed heat sources must be shielded to protect snakes from serious
burns as they attempt to warm themselves by coiling next to them.
Large and small enclosures should also provide the snake a focal
(spot) source of warmth. Small snakes should be offered a hot rock.
Large snakes can use one or more well-protected and water-proofed
heating pads. These appliances allow the snake direct, but safe,
contact with the heat source, which helps to raise their body
temperature. This allows the snake to be more active and increases
their rate of digestion. Check these appliances frequently for
malfunction and periodically check the snake for evidence of burns
because snakes generally do not move away from heat-generating
appliances even if they are being severely burned.
Lighting
Ideally, it would be advantageous for all captive reptiles to be
housed in such a way that they could be exposed to and benefit from
direct, unfiltered sunlight during the daylight hours every day.
This represents the healthiest and most natural situation.
Unfortunately, this set of circumstances can rarely be fulfilled by
hobbyists because it is neither practical or possible. The next best
solution is to use an artificial ultraviolet light source rather than
fluorescent or incandescent lightbulbs. One or more Vitalites (Duro-
Lite Lamps, Duro-Test Corp. Lyndhurst, NH 07071) should be used to
illuminate the enclosure during the daylight hours. To approximate a
natural photo-period, it is best to supply 10-12 hours of daylight
and 12-14 hours of darkness each day, with a gradual increase in the
number of hours of light in the spring and a gradual decrease in the
fall and winter months.
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