Iguana
Housing
Considerations
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Next to adequate nutrition, no other aspect of husbandry for
captive reptiles is more important than sanitation and hygiene. Many
bacterial and fungal diseases of captive reptiles result from their
daily exposure to fecal contamination and a damp, filthy environment.
In the wild, reptiles have acres of land and water over which their
feces and uneaten food can be scattered. They rarely, if ever, come
in contact with this material. This is not the case with captive
reptiles. Owners of captive reptiles engage in a continual struggle
to prevent bacterial build-up caused by continual deposition of waste
products and uneaten food.
An iguana's cage floor or aquarium bottom can be covered with
clean newspaper (unprinted preferably) or butcher paper. The next
best material is indoor-outdoor carpeting. Paper towel squares can
also be placed end to end to cover the entire bottom of the
enclosure. When one of the squares becomes soiled, it can be easily
removed and replaced without disturbing the entire floor of the
enclosure. Under no circumstances should pea gravel, corncob
material, wood shavings, sand, kitty litter or sawdust be used. None
of these items promote adequate cleanliness, and they may be eaten
while the iguana is feeding, resulting in intestinal impaction.
Iguanas are frequently displayed on moss. Even though this is
visually attractive, it is a poor husbandry practice because this
material remains continually damp, promoting serious skin infections.
A captive iguana's environment must be kept fastidiously clean
and dry. Any object that becomes soiled with feces or urine should
be removed and cleaned or replaced as soon as possible. The
enclosure should be set up so that it can be easily cleaned. Human
nature dictates that the more time it takes to clean the cage and the
more complicated the task, the less often it will be done. Make the
enclosure functional rather than beautiful.
Reptiles are highly susceptible to poisoning from pine oil
cleaners, such as PineSol and Lysol. These household cleaners must
be avoided.
Visual Security
A hiding place into which a captive iguana can retreat and be
free from constant visual scrutiny should be provided. Visual
security can be provided by supplying cardboard rolls (from toilet
paper or paper towels) for small iguanas or cardboard boxes for large
iguanas. Optimal visual security can be provided, however, by
strategic placement of artificial plants. Because iguanas like to
climb and bask, some of the branches and artificial plants provided
should be arranged to allow this activity above the floor of the
enclosure. Silk artificial plants are visually pleasing and easy to
clean and maintain, and also withstand the use of disinfectants.
Focal Heat Source
All reptiles require a warm environmental temperature to raise
their body temperature and increase their metabolic rate and activity
level. The optimal environmental temperature to provide for captive
iguanas in their enclosures is between 85 and 103 F.
In the wild, reptiles bask in direct sunlight. Captive iguanas
do quite well when a "hot rock" (Sizzle Stone, Terra Fauna Products)
is provided. The iguana has the option of lying on this object
(totally or partially) to obtain its heat as needed. Care must be
taken to ensure the appliance is functioning properly. Malfunction-
ing hot rocks can cause serious burns.
Sunlight and Artificial Sunlight
Captive reptiles rarely receive adequate exposure to ultraviolet
(UV) light, especially when they are housed indoors. Captive
reptiles, especially iguanas, must receive direct sunlight to benefit
from its UV component. Ultraviolet light is necessary to properly
absorb dietary calcium.
Window glass and plastics filter UV light. Consequently,
reptiles must be housed in screened or wire enclosures during the
time they are to be exposed to direct sunlight. Also, a shaded area
must be provided so the iguana can avoid heat stroke from over-
exposure to sunlight.
An alternative to direct sunlight for reptiles house indoors is
an artificial UV light source, such as a Vitalite (Duro-Lite Lamps,
Lyndhurst, NJ 07071). To approximate a natural photoperiod, it is
best to supply 10-12 hours of daylight and 12-14 hours of darkness
each day, with a gradual increase in the number of hours of light
supplied in the spring and a gradual decrease in the number of hours
provided in the fall and winter months.
Water
Water can be made available to captive iguanas in a variety of
ways. A standing water source, such as a filled ceramic dish, can be
available for bathing and drinking. Spraying water on artificial
plants and allowing the iguana to lap up this moisture is another
suitable strategy.
The bathtub is a wonderful and practical recreational area for a
pet iguana. Swimming is great fun to observe and provides excellent
exercise for the iguana. The tub is also a practical, relatively
escape-proof "holding area" for the iguana while its enclosure is
being cleaned. The tub should be filled so that its shallowest
portion allows for submersion of about 2/3 of the iguana's body. The
water should be warm and of a temperature comfortable for a human
bather. Iguanas may be allowed to occasionally swim in chlorinated
swimming pools as long as the activity is closely supervised and the
iguana is thoroughly rinsed off with fresh water afterwards.
Cage Mate
A cage mate for an iguana is not advisable. Iguanas are not
particulary sociable animals and are quite territorial. The addition
of a cage mate invites unnecessary aggression and fighting.
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