Iguana Feeding Information
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Recent studies indicated that the iguana iguana or known as the rainforest common green iguana is one of the few completely herbivorous (plant-eating) lizard in its natural habitat. Therefore, the information on iguana care and its food supply should be based on that aspect. It is important then, to consider physiology, environment and diet in order to keep an iguana in the picture of good health.
Iguana management is dependent on the understanding of the digestive system of a pet. They are considered Hind-Gut fermenters which means the general well being is directed by the lower intestinal tract. The lower intestinal tract is responsible for vitamin production, fatty acid production, water reabsorption, etc. It is essential then that, even in juvenile iguanas, a crude fiber of 14-16% should be observed to satisfy this requirement. Older iguanas should receive a greater proportion of 16-18% in their diets.
It is noteworthy to caution that many iguanas suffer for malnutrition and inappropriate management resulting in unwanted, sick or abandoned lizards. It is difficult to get an accurate guide for care since many recommendations are based on personal experience and not scientific research. So the best way to approach it is to examine the wild iguana's natural habitat and food supply.
One recent study conducted on 31 iguanas in Panama discovered that in all the subjects, the stomach contained only plant material which consisted of 26 varieties of plants. In 24 iguanas there was only leaves, in 4 there was leaves and flowers, in 2 only fruit, and in 1 only flowers.
Iguanas like any other animal, have personal preferences in regard to taste. For example, they may enjoy fruits only, but it is important to give a balanced diet. Just think of how our health would be if we only ate sweets, the same applies to animals.
In captivity an iguana's diet should consist of a variety of dark green leafy vegetables, but you should minimize the use of vegetables that contain oxalates like spinach, parsley and kales; although this point is still being debated. Fruits should be only a small proportion of the diet since they tend to reduce the calcium and protein levels in the iguana. If a commercial diet is used, you should be limited it so that it does not exceed 50% of the total diet. Alfalfa based is preferable to corn or wheat. Remember to soak any dry diet first before giving it to your iguana.
Juvenile iguanas should be fed daily and you should chop all of the ingredients into a size that can be easily handled since iguanas do not masticate (chew) before swallowing. For convenience, you can then mix them thoroughly and store the mixture in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Once or twice a day, offer a small amount of this mixture. It is a good idea to also sprinkle the food with an appropriate vitamin-mineral supplement. Particular attention to calcium supplements is important because young, growing iguanas are very prone to calcium deficiencies. If none is available, growing iguanas may also be fed "expanded"(allowed to expand by absorbing water) guinea pig or rabbit pellets, either plain or as a top dressing over vegetables. Furthermore, the amount of sunlight whether artificial or natural plays an important part in producing Vitamin D3, which is essential for Calcium absorption.
Older iguanas should be fed 2-3 times per week and can be offered the same items as listed above. Plant material, such as dandelions (flowers and leaves), clover, rose
petals, and flowers of hibiscus, carnation and nasturtium, should be offered as well. Many health food stores carry fresh or dried dandelion and other edible herbs that can be offered to captive iguanas all year round. Fresh fruit (bananas, berries, apples, peaches, pears, plums)
can occasionally be included in the diet.
Intestinal Inoculation
A fairly recent discovery has provided a probable explanation for the premature deaths of young iguanas despite apparently adequate diets. In the wild, young iguanas obtain needed intestinal bacteria and protozoa by eating the feces of adult iguanas. The microorganisms acquired this way are essential for digestion of plant
material. Baby iguanas are not born with these microbes, so young iguanas reared in captivity never acquire them.
All newly acquired, domestically raised (not wild-caught) iguanas should receive fresh feces from a healthy, parasite-free adult iguana (preferably wild-caught). One dose should inoculate the iguana for life. Some veterinary hospitals are prepared to assist new iguana owners with this process.
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