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Proper housing is a major factor in the maintenance of healthy
guinea pigs. The well-being of the animals must be a primary
consideration. Guinea pigs can be housed within enclosures made of
wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The last 3
materials are preferred because they resist corrosion. Wood and
similar materials should not be used in construction of enclosures
because they are difficult to clean and cannot withstand gnawing.
The construction and design of the enclosure must prevent escape.
The enclosure also must be free of sharp edges and other potential
hazards.
The enclosure must be roomy enough to allow normal activities and
breeding, if the latter is desired. One reference recommends at
least 100 square inches of floor area per adult, whereas breeders
should be allowed 180 square inches per animal.
The enclosure can be open at the top, provided that its sides are
at least 7-8 inches high. Male guinea pigs (especially breeding
males) require enclosures with side at least 10 inches high. Males
tend to be more rambunctious.
Guinea pigs can be housed on wire mesh (suitable for housing
rats) but it is not recommended. Though wire mesh allows urine and
most fecal pellets to drop through, thereby keeping the bedding and
the residents cleaner, guinea pigs housed for long periods on wire
tend to develop serious injuries to the bottoms of their feet (see
section on Foot Pad Infections). Furthermore, a leg may be broken if
it becomes entangled in the mesh. This is most often a problem with
guinea pigs that have not been reared on wire mesh, and occurs soon
after they have been introduced onto it.
Enclosures that provide solid flooring and an adequate supply of
a preferred bedding are best for pet guinea pigs. They should be
easy to clean, well lighted, and adequately ventilated (see Vital
Statistics for preferred temperature and relative humidity ranges).
Bedding must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and
easy to replace. Shredded paper, wood shavings, and processed corn
cob are preferred bedding materials. Sawdust should be avoided
because it tends to collect within the external genitalia of males,
forming an impaction. Rarely does this impaction interfere with
urination, but it may inhibit successful breeding.
Guinea pigs seem most comfortable when they are spared exposure
to excessive noise, needless excitement and confusion, and other
stresses. Sudden environmental changes should also be prevented.
Guinea pigs have 2 types of reactions when startled by a loud
noise or sudden movement or when placed in a strange environment.
They may "freeze" completely motionless (for up to 20 minutes), or
they may panic. Panic involves erratic running and leaping, often
accompanied by shrill squealing. Groups of guinea pigs may stampede
in a circle, often trampling the younger residents within the
enclosure. A panic reaction scatters bedding and food, fouling the
food and water containers. Visual security (a place into which they
can retreat when frightened) should always be provided. Rectangular
enclosures containing barriers also reduce the tendency to stampede
and circle.
The frequency with which the enclosure is cleaned depends on its
design, the materials out of which it is made, and the number of
guinea pigs that reside within it. As a general rule of thumb, the
enclosure and all cage "furniture" should be cleaned and disinfected
once weekly. Food and water containers should be cleaned and
disinfected once daily. More than one set of containers should be
maintained, and the soiled set should be washed in a dishwasher, if
possible. Vigorous srubbing of the enclosure and "furniture" with
hot water and soap and a thorough rinse should be followed by use of
a disinfectant. Vinegar is often required to
remove the scale deposited by the crystalline urine of guinea pigs.
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